|
Post by CoonKing1 on Jul 15, 2004 0:13:05 GMT -5
when u skin a coon, when u get to the front legs do u cut around the wrists or do u cut around the elbow? ive seen both in books but the elbow makes more sense cua when they are drying the arms are sticking out.
thanks,scott
|
|
Beav
New Member
Posts: 27
|
Post by Beav on Jul 25, 2004 23:50:53 GMT -5
My advise Is to not cut around the front legs untill you have skinned out the legs then cut off about 3" from the body. A little parctice will get you the right distance. You don't want too big of a hole by cutting to close but you also don't want the leg skin to long or It will taint under the arm pit. When you got It right you will have a neat rosette shape with just a ring of fur and no hole showing.
Beav
|
|
jk
Junior Member
Posts: 72
|
Post by jk on Jul 29, 2004 16:43:19 GMT -5
Also about coon, fleshing. I got down graded last year because the skins needed to be refleshed. I agree they were greasy. Is my goal to slice of a thin layer of leather? I was fleshing the dame day I caught them but friend says to put them in a freezer for a week then thaw out for a day then flesh. I do not understand the basics of fleshing. Thanks ahead for who ever answers....jk
|
|
Beav
New Member
Posts: 27
|
Post by Beav on Jul 29, 2004 17:18:25 GMT -5
This Is where most beginers go wrong.You realy need to find some one that knows how to flesh and get some insructions. You will be better off selling your fur In the grease (un fleshed) untill you get some help.
You don't want to get down Into the leather, if you do you wil be cutting the roots of the hair and it will fall out during the tanning process. Fur handleing viedos are fine and will give you some good pointers but hands on help Is the best way. As to freezing and then thawing,I never have seen where it is of much help. If It's cold where you skin just skin and let the hides hang over night and the fat will set up a bit and won't be so greasy as you flesh.
Where are you from? I might be able to set you up with some one who could help.
Beav
|
|
Jennifer
Full Member
LICENSED NUISANCE CONTROL OPERATOR AND REHABILTATOR/PROUD MEMBER NWCOA
Posts: 192
|
Post by Jennifer on Jul 30, 2004 12:47:43 GMT -5
Beav-thanks for the 'heads up'...I have considered selling furs 'unfleshed'-as I am green to all this stuff also, I wouldn't want to be downgraded either-seems safer to do as you said. Jen
|
|
|
Post by BIRDDOG on Jul 30, 2004 15:39:29 GMT -5
i too am new to this sport, but you wont learn if you dont try. you want to do your best, just take your time. if you can get help great, if not just try. im not doing this for the money, thats just a bonus. have fun with it like evey thing, it just take time Birddog
|
|
Beav
New Member
Posts: 27
|
Post by Beav on Aug 1, 2004 22:35:41 GMT -5
Your right bird dog but I would at least practice on road kills or small sub standerd hides untill you get It right. Beav
|
|
|
Post by firefox on Aug 1, 2004 22:49:34 GMT -5
When trapping season starts.I skin all my coon and freeze them.So when my catches slow down or cold weather.I have put 30 to 40 coon in one day.Thats all the stretchers I have.As for skinning I skin down to the wrist.I put the tip of the fleshing beam in the front leg hole to flesh the arm pit of the coon.When done fleshing and on stretcher.I cut the front leg off leaveing 1-11/2 inch there.FIREFOX
|
|
|
Post by BIRDDOG on Aug 2, 2004 12:14:22 GMT -5
right on, i wam up on a few grinners, still need to work on my double handle fleasher skills. i am going to try to freeze some coon and do them when thing slow down, good idea BridDog
|
|
lyas
New Member
Posts: 20
|
Post by lyas on Aug 16, 2004 22:45:50 GMT -5
firefox, thats what we do too. We skin everything the day after we catch it (the fur needs to dry in front of the fans over night, because we trap in the water). Then when the fur is good and dry we skin it, and fold it so all the fat is folded into the fur and freeze it, till our trapping season is over. Then we take them out and flesh them as time permits.
JK, where do you live? any where near northern Illinois? John would be happy to teach you to flesh coon.
|
|
jk
Junior Member
Posts: 72
|
Post by jk on Aug 18, 2004 11:34:58 GMT -5
Iyas, thank you, I live in north central Pa and have met a full time trapper who will help me. Him being full time I have no idea when he will have time but he said to call. Thank you for the offer........jk
|
|
jk
Junior Member
Posts: 72
|
Post by jk on Sept 8, 2004 19:21:32 GMT -5
Been gone for two weeks helping nephew. Mr Galen please exsplain the necker and carabou knife which do you like best. I am definately in the market for a better knife than I have, a local full time expert used a wood draw knife which I have several of. Have room to build a trapping shed and am interested in plans for fleshing beam. Thank you jk
|
|
|
Post by Galen Klisiewicz on Sept 9, 2004 6:19:43 GMT -5
A lot of local buyers I found never do use either, and I guess they are just stuck in thier ways. The Necker has been the best fleshing tool on the market for years. It has a sharp side and a flat side. The flat side is for pushing off fat and tissue, the sharp side is for cutting. This knive is high quality and never needs sharpening. I have done over 5000 coon with mine and never sharpened it. The caribou knive has grown in popularity. It has taken the #1 place on the knive market. Made of high grade stainless it too never needs sharpening. It also has the same curve and has a razer sharp cutting side, and a sharp back side. Extremly good knive for beaver and otter. I myself have both and after practice can use the caribou on any hide. but it is very sharp and will cut quickly. The handles on the caribou will allow your hands to rest easier as it has a better hand fit to it. hope this helps
|
|
|
Post by Galen Klisiewicz on Sept 9, 2004 6:24:03 GMT -5
A note on fleshing beams We make them all out of maple maple has a grain that is fine and if it is cut or scared with knife can be buffed back out where oak's grain will want to travel. when you look for a beam get rid of the idea that the beam has to be tappered all the way down. you NEVER USE more than the first fooot of the beam. do all your work close to you and you will save your back and will not make cutting mistakes. pull your hide up to you do not push down the beam. by the way we guarantee our beams
|
|
|
Post by BeckyW on Dec 20, 2004 14:58:36 GMT -5
Hi folks... I am new to your forum....with that said, I have a couple questions....I am in NE Kansas and am looking in to fleshing/stretching my coon hides this year before selling. Is there anyone in or around this area that could show me how to do this? I have stretchers and a board, but need to get my tools...what do you all recommend for beginners? Also...how much do you gain when selling (if done properly) by doing this vs. just skinning and selling them that way? I have picked up quite a few roadkill coons and have some smaller ones that I planned on practicing on. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions to a greenie! Beck
|
|