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Post by BIRDDOG on Aug 2, 2004 12:20:44 GMT -5
Beav it is a river that runs through a farm field almost looks like a drainage ditch, can all most jump across. its deep and has a fast current. step side. many bends. i will look for dens, is it just a hole in or above the water line?? the river is full of crawfish too. can you or someone explain the bottom edge system of mink trapping. do you put a 110 at the bottom edge? Birddog
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Beav
New Member
Posts: 27
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Post by Beav on Aug 2, 2004 15:33:27 GMT -5
Sounds like a tough one bird dog.
Active rat dens will be under water. They start the entrance under water and then dig till they get above the water line. Then they have a secure dry den. If you can't see bottom or wade you will have a hard time finding the dens or runs. My advise Is to use some floats and anchor them In the slow water behind the numerous bends you talk about. rats won't fight the heavy current.So these slack water areas may work with floats. Of coarse you will have to trap before any ice forms. Or If that dosen't work find some other place to trap rats LOL.
Bottom edge sets are exactly how they are called. You set a 110 on the bottom tight up against the bank and hope a rat or mink swims through. Here's how It's supose to work. A rat or mink Is a hugger they will swim tight along the bank. When they come to a under water point they will stay tight to It as they swim around It.So your trap needs to be right at the point so when the animal swims around It, It will swim through the trap. So you have to find these under water points. I don't use very many of these types of sets but there are persons that tell me they take lots of mink and rats In them. Good luck
Beav
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Post by Galen Klisiewicz on Aug 10, 2004 5:58:03 GMT -5
bottom edge sets work great if your in the right place. I find them best used around a bend in the river or creek. For mink think of it this way>>> the mink will swim the bottom as he rounds this bend in serch of live food swimming in the pool around the bend. like Beav said set up tight to the bank and this method is done in deeper water. I have never seen a river or creek where you cant catch a mink this way. let me tell you also you will catch your share of rats in this set. Let me warn you also otter use this method of swimming too..
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Post by fishguts on Aug 21, 2004 13:21:57 GMT -5
heres one for water trappers. spend the extra and get the neopreme waders. i just got my first pair and what a diffrence just the comfort is wirth the extra cash it takes.
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Post by BIRDDOG on Aug 21, 2004 18:55:41 GMT -5
fish, i got a pair for duck hunting, can walk all day in'em and warm too. nevwr go back to rubber. worth the $$ birddog
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Post by Galen Klisiewicz on Aug 24, 2004 7:30:34 GMT -5
If you haven't tried this on coyotes give it a try. Where I set in fields for coyotes I go up from the trap about 30 feet and stick in a white flag on a wire. (marker flags) what happens is any canine will see movement. He enters the fields edge and sees this little flags motion and comes out to investigate. from there your bait will draw him in. oh by the way trappers HIGH VOLTAGE CALL LURE IS NOW BOTTLED AND WAITING
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Post by BigPossum on Aug 24, 2004 15:18:53 GMT -5
My tip would be : When land trapping for coon, wether foothold, bodygrip, or cubbies -- put in several so you can still catch some coon after the possums are done getting caught. Joe
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Post by fishguts on Aug 25, 2004 9:17:14 GMT -5
thats a good one joe! im lucky i guess i dont have possums here, but i got plenty of rabbits and porkies to screwup my sets.
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Post by illbzbeaver on Aug 26, 2004 21:03:44 GMT -5
i see some good tips here but the two most inporant tips to me are always set on the freashest sign. and alwas make sure you ask permission to trap on the land you are one.
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Post by BIRDDOG on Sept 2, 2004 11:33:57 GMT -5
i use a few live traps, i tryed use marshmellows and fish. the mellows get all sticky and tend to be a pain. i am going to try hanging a plastic golf ball in the back if the trap this year. i will let you know how it works. plus the golf ball is reuseable unless ricky tears it apart. Birddog
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Post by JohnPorter on Dec 8, 2004 16:36:18 GMT -5
with winter arriving in the USA---I would like to remind everyone to test the ice before commiting to walking on it. Take an ice spud and poke holes every few yards to check the ice thickness. 2-3 inches will hold a human being up. Also always carry ice picks when beaver trapping--they come in handy when one falls through. If possible, always beaver trap with a partner for safety purposes. Remember, ice around the hut and dam usually is the thinnest. Been through a few times when I checked and had 8 inches of ice but walked 4 ft towards the hut and the ice was thin. John
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Post by paintmanj98 on Jan 21, 2005 20:42:17 GMT -5
Having 3 foot of chain wouldn't give the coyote a lot of room to get a running start to yank his self out?
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Post by Deadfall_Paul on Jan 21, 2005 22:16:47 GMT -5
paintmanj98 with 3 feet of chain you want a shock spring on there to prevent that from happening. I also want to be cross staked.
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Post by paintmanj98 on Jan 21, 2005 22:27:48 GMT -5
I have a short chain with a shock spring. The chain is most likely chorter than a foot. The BMI 1 1/2 soft catch trap is what I have with the stock spring. Should I attach a longer chain or is it fine like it is?
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Post by Deadfall_Paul on Jan 21, 2005 22:42:48 GMT -5
I personally don't use a trap that small for 'yotes and have no experience with the BMI 1 1/2 but with a short chain like that I would be sure to be cross staked as I mentioned above. I have never had a 'yote pump a cross staked stake yet. As for the 1 1/2 with a longer chain I tend to think they could pull, but again that is only my opinion. Another thing is I would have at least three swivels. Hope that is of some help.
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